Wednesday, January 15, 2014

Dubai to Lahore.

On the flight from Dubai to Karachi the man repeats the same broken
English words to the steward: "-This is my wife! But this is my wife!"

FlyDubai is a budget airline. Most of the passengers are migrant
workers coming back from the UAE, a few are middle class families
returning from shopping trips.

Another man, dressed in a business suit, is holding onto his wife's and adult
daughter's boarding passes while showing them where to sit. Other men
have been giving their women their boarding pass right before stepping
on the plane with a look of "-Remember, you only get one!". As if
giving candy to a child.

The unfortunate man in the aisle is still standing there. "-This is my
wife!" His point is that he has to sit next to his wife or he won't
sit down at all. Everyone else is already seated and now he demands
that he will be accommodated. As this is only a two-hour flight, this
has nothing to do with the pleasure of them sitting together, but
everything to do with him making sure his wife doesn't get herself in
trouble.

Eventually, some people are moved around and we can take off.

*******

Two days later on the twenty-three-hour train journey to Lahore, the
conversation turns to American drone attacks, Israel and the Taliban.

The guys I share the compartment with are very friendly and we have a
great trip together. But when we talk politics I have to listen to
stuff like "-Israel runs the American government!", "-The Jews run the
IMF!" and "-Some people are destined to be poor. You can't change
it!".

I make clear that I strongly disagree with what they say, but hold
back a little as to not come across as rude. It's difficult not to say
"-I think you're ignorant!" to someone when you know they deserve it.

Then, later, I realize that there is a strong connection between those
two travel experiences: the fatalistic blame game and the oppression
of women.

Because one reason that countries like Pakistan are in such disarray
is that their women have no say in matters of importance. Not only is
the country run from a pure male perspective, lacking the input of
half the population, but because women are not really allowed into
professional work life, the economy is only firing on half its cylinders.

The economic engine of Europe is Germany and I hardly believe that the
"worldwide Jewish conspiracy" would've picked that country to promote
to prosperity. Germany got there by fighting corruption and nepotism,
making sure people pay taxes to support strong social programs, taking
religion out of government, and by promoting equality.

For a moment I find myself alone in the train compartment with one of
the men and he suddenly confides in me that he is depressed with his
life. He's 24 and has his own textile business with 45 employees. He's
obviously doing very well for himself financially. But he is bogged
down by family traditions, the constant violence and by a barely
working government.

"-I want freedom.", he says.

And I'm thinking that, whatever "freedom" means to him, it might be a
while before he gets that.